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Where should I shave?
Not sure if you should “manscape” your body? Shobha Tummala, owner of New York City’s Shobha, suggests the following “Twirl Test” to see if you need to manscape (trim up your abundant body hair): “If you are uncertain about your manscaping needs, you can do a self-test, which is quick, easy, and painless,” explains Tummala. “Simply try to wrap a piece of your body hair (in a region that concerns you - other than your cranium, silly) around your pinky finger. If your hair can wrap more than half way around this phalange, you need to explore maintenance options.”
According to Tummala most areas for excess fuzz for men are found on the torso. "And it's true, some people actually enjoy a few extra tufts of hair on their mate's chest - but there is nothing erotic about back hair! Oh, and just one more little factoid, posterior hair can exist north and south of the waistline - everything must go!”
Now that you know it’s time to cut down on the fuzz factor, here is everything you need to look downright man-pretty…almost effortlessly.
Razor types
With a myriad of choices for razors – 2 blades, 4 blades, electric, and straight razors – how do you know which one to use and how to wield it? While it may be a matter of personal preference, the pro’s weigh in on some factors you should keep in mind.
“The standard two-track blade is easy to use (therefore reducing the risk of nicks and cuts), inexpensive and, because it’s disposable, provides the highest level of sanitation,” offers
Joe Grondin, founder of Roosters. “These are made by several manufactures and all are good. The straight razor has none of these benefits (it’s expensive, not sanitary and can be tricky to avoid nicks). The multiple blade, more than three blades, doesn’t hold any real value for a closer shave.”
Joyce Carboni, founder/director of Skinsational Spa in Carlsbad, CA, gives these tips on razors:
- You must discard the shaving blades after four or five uses. They have already dulled after that.
- Electric shavers, when properly used, can offer a shave that is as close a blade razor. Electric shavers roll up the skin ahead of the hair forcing the whisker up above the skin line, where it can be cut. Plus, as an added benefit, you are far less likely to receive any cuts!
Editor's note: Check out the Men's Grooming Lounge Ivory Razor and Stand.
Shaving Lubes: creams/foams/gels
Now the tricky part – or trickier part – you selected the perfect blade, but how do you know if you should go with foam, cream or gel to get the closest shave and baby soft skin? It doesn’t end there though; you need to top off your shave with a lotion or soothing aftershave to finish off the process.
While it’s always best to use your skin type to determine which product is best for you, sometimes it’s also a little bit of trial-and-error.
Wait, there are different kinds of skin?
Determining your skin type is a painless and fast process. Basically, there are four types: normal or combination, dry, oily and sensitive.
How do you tell which type you have? Joyce Carboni, founder/director of Skinsational Spa in Carlsbad, CA, breaks it down for ya’…
Combination/Normal: Combination or normal skin has medium sized pores with a smooth, even texture. There may be a tendency for dryness on the cheeks while being oily in the t-zone area (down your nose and across your forehead).
Dry Skin: Dry skin feels tight, especially after cleansing. You may have flaking, redness or fine wrinkles.
Oily Skin: Oily skin tends to be shiny. You may have enlarged pores and are prone to blackheads & blemishes.
Sensitive Skin: Sensitive skin has fine pores and delicate, thin skin. Frequently, sensitive skin is allergic and can develop rashes from products. You may also be prone to broken capillaries.
Choose your lube…
By Skin type:
Combination/Normal: Most shave cream, foams, and gels work for your skin type. You may want to ask your barber to see what they recommend for you or simply try out a few travel size varieties to see what you like the best.
Dry Skin: Joe Grondin, founder of Roosters, prefers a gel to foam or a cream because of the added protection and moisture it can bring your skin. He recommends that you make sure it has some vitamins and Aloe in it to add smoothness (from the vitamin oil) and moisture (Aloe) for a closer shave with little or no skin irritation.
Joyce Carboni, founder/director of Skinsational Spa in Ca, thinks that creams or gels can work just fine, as long as it is a moisturizing formula. She cautions about using too much though – too thick a layer can clog your razor and cause it to skip across your skin.
Oily Skin: Although your inclination may be to “dry out” the oil, avoid products that contain alcohol! This won’t help at all and may actually cause your skin to kick up the oil production to compensate – no matter what skin type you have.
Sensitive Skin: If you’re prone to skin irritation from shaving, Peter Solomon, owner of State Street Barbers in Boston's South End, recommends an application of pre-shave oil before putting on the shave lube. This will help the razor glide effortlessly over your face. Simply put a few drops in your hand and rub over your beard, paying particular attention to your trouble spots. Remember, a little goes a long way!
By problems:
Prone to nicks and cuts:
Shave creams, as opposed to shave gels, provide a thicker lather and offer more of a substantial barrier against nicks and cuts explains Raymond Attipa, founder and creator of True Gentlemen. When looking for a shave cream, it should be free of artificial fragrances, which can irritate your already sensitive skin. Attipa suggests looking for products containing botanical oils, which are gentle and provide a natural scent.
Extra-close shave:
Want to get a super-close shave? Peter Solomon, owner of State Street Barbers in Boston's South End, recommends a shave brush. “A shave brush helps to lift the whiskers thereby allowing for a closer shave; plus, it makes a little shave cream go a long way,” clarifies Solomon. All you need to do is get it wet, then rub a pea-sized amount of shaving cream on the brush. (Note: shave brushes work best with foaming shave creams.) Rub the brush in circles across your face and neck and presto — you’re ready to commence whisker annihilation.
Editor's note: Check out these great shaving products: Jason 6-in-1 Beard & Skin Therapy All Natural Shaving Lotion, Woody's Foaming Shave Gel, and The Grooming Lounge Beard Destroyer Shave Cream.
Down to the nitty-gritty – let’s get shaving!
Pre shave:
That’s right, pre-shave. Before you wh ip out the razor and start haphazardly scraping off those hairs there are a few things you can do to expedite the process, and try to stop the red bumps and ingrown hairs before they start.
First, check the way your hair grows. Joyce Carboni, founder/director of Skinsational Spa in Carlsbad, CA, explains that shaving in the direction of your hair growth is best. Shaving against the grain can cause razor burn.
Here are some crucial elements that you will need to get started:
- Fog-free shower mirror OR Hot towel
- Shave oil or a preshave balm
- Shaving cream or gel – whatever your preference or what suits your skin type Razor of
choice
The prep process
“Making the whiskers as soft and supple as possible is critical to getting a close, irritation-free shave,” comments Peter Solomon, owner of State Street Barbers in Boston's South End. “The best way to achieve this is to shave in the shower with the aid of a fog-free mirror: the steam from the shower envelops your face with warm moisture which opens the pores and helps keep the whiskers soft. (This is why barbers use hot face towels during shaves.) If your fog-free mirror starts to fog up on you (and we’ve never found a TRULY fog-free mirror), apply a drop of conditioner over the surface of the mirror with your finger.”
Don’t feel like running out to buy that fog-free mirror? Joyce Carboni, founder/director of Skinsational Spa in CA, reveals you can emulate the hot-towel treatment you would get at a high-end salon. “Use a damp towel to open your pores and soften your hairs. Never use hot water, which will dehydrate skin,” adds Carboni.
Things to avoid:
Carboni also doles out a word of caution for some products: “avoid products with drying ingredients such as alcohol or glycolic acid. These will over-exfoliate the skin and cause peeling.”
Shaving Advice: 8 steps to a perfect shave
1. Take a hot shower to open up your pores, or use a hot towel.
2. Dry your face and neck with a soft towel.
3. Massage a small amount of pre-shave oil (and/or your choice of preshave balms) to
your face.
4. Using tepid water, wet a shaving brush or your fingers. Lather up a small amount of
cream, foam or gel to anywhere you want to shave. Work up a rich lather to ensure
maximum shave-ability.
5. Gently shave in direction your hair grows.
6. Rinse off and apply another layer of your shave lube (gel, cream or foam) and then
shave against the direction that your hair grows.
7. Rinse with cold water – not only will this feel great, it will close your pores too.
8. Apply a small amount of your choice of post-shave goop.
Editor's note: Check out these great shaving products: Jason 6-in-1 Beard & Skin Therapy All Natural Shaving Lotion, Woody's Foaming Shave Gel, and The Grooming Lounge Beard Destroyer Shave Cream.
Troubleshooting
Even though you followed all the pre-shave, shave, and post shave recommendations you may still end up with some bumps until you get the hang of it and find the perfect combo of goodies. Just in case you get some unsightly little ingrown hairs or other blips in your perfect shave job we can help ya’ out.
Two common problems that men face when shaving are Ingrown hairs and Razor burn.
“For some men, especially those with curly hair, the problem may never entirely go away,” explains Joe Grondin, founder of Roosters. “ But for others, a sharper razor and proper skin preparation prior to shaving can eliminate the razor burn.”
Hold on…hair can grow in instead and out?
Ingrown hairs occurs when the hair grows sideways or curls back towards the skin. A major reason this happens is because your pores are closed while shaving. You can avoid the closed pore conundrum by allowing your pores to steam open in the shower, or with a hot towel. Other factors include: dull razors (so make sure you change your blades often!), incorrect shaving techniques (didn’t you read our handy step-by-step guide?), or using products that contain alcohol (a big no-no!).
Peter Solomon, owner of State Street Barbers in Boston's South End, clarifies that men with coarse, thick hair may experience ingrown hairs often. If you are prone to ingrown hairs, make sure you start off with a pre-shave oil – which weakens the hair follicle and prepares them to be cut properly.
Have an ingrown that you just can’t live with? Joyce Carboni, founder/director of Skinsational Spa in CA, proposes tweezing. Very carefully use tweezers to lift the ingrown hair out. Don’t pluck though! This will only make the hair grow back deeper.
Carboni weighs in on the ingrowns:
- Salicylic acid: Carboni advocates using a product with ingredients such as salicylic acid if you suffer from ingrown hairs. “It will clear pores and can help prevent infection while improving razor bumps. You can also try a moisturizer with soothing ingredients such as azulene or witch hazel.”
- Exfoliate, exfoliate, exfoliate! According to Carboni, exfoliating is the number one way (not to mention the easiest and least expensive way) to prevent ingrown hairs. It will eliminate dead skin cells and clear follicles to allow for hair growth.
- Cleaning your razor blade will prevent razor burn and ingrown hairs. “Wiping your razor with alcohol after each use to kill bacteria,” adds Carboni. If you do have red bumps, try Tend Skin by Tend Skin to help improve appearances.
Editor's note: Give those ingrowns a little TLC with GiGi No Bump Treatment, Moujan Outgrow Foam, and Woody's Post Shave Rescue.
Burning up…
Razor burn occurs when your skin becomes irritated after shaving (possibly due to shaving off some excess skin) and may be a bit uncomfortable. Usually, it manifests itself as a mild rash but it has been known to produce little welts or even infected pustules.
“To help prevent ingrown hairs and razor burn, men should begin their shave routine with a hot shower to open pores and start off with a pre-shave oil, which serves to weaken ingrown hairs and prepares them to be cut at the proper angle,” describes Raymond Attipa, founder and creator of True Gentlemen. “Men should also incorporate an after-shave balm into their grooming routine, as it will re-moisturize the skin and deliver the proper nutrients for new skin to develop.”
Editor's note: Keep cool with Jason 6-in-1 Beard & Skin Therapy All Natural After Shave Tonic and Grooming Lounge Happy Ending After Shave.
Don’t feel like shaving all the time?
There are options!
Sugaring
Sugaring is a form of hair removal, similar to waxing, but is said to be much gentler and less painful. In fact, Shobha Tummala, owner of New York City’s Shobha explains that sugaring is up to 50% less painful than waxing and in some areas it's virtually painless!
Waxing
Waxing removes hair from the root by applying a thin layer of wax to the hairy area and essentially ripping the hair out – root and all. Some waxing requires paper of cloth strips and others can be removed by simply tugging on the wax after i t has hardened a bit.
If you’re thinking about seeking a waxing or sugaring regimen Tummala has some advice: “If you're new to manscaping, we recommend a monthly regime to help keep that monkey off your back (or front!).”
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